Eastern Sierras - Kearsarge Pass to Kings Canyon

Morning light on the Kearsarge Pinnacles from our camp at the 2nd Kearsarge Lake

Straight north from Los Angeles are the Mojave and Great Basin Deserts. Driving through the arid valley along Highway 395, it is hard to believe that hundreds of clear lakes lie within an aerial distance of 10 miles just behind the mountain barrier to the west. Only to the west, though. The mountains and valleys to the east (like Death Valley) are desolate. 

We went the weekend of June 20, a time when it is still easy to get wilderness permits on short notice, even for a popular trailhead like Kearsarge Pass, which goes into Kings Canyon National Park from the east. Timing was perfect, temperatures were pleasant, the days were not hot and the nights were no longer cold. No mosquitoes yet (I slept outside, didn't use a tent), which would change quickly. Some big fat mosquitoes were around, but very sluggish and barely for an hour. No tiny, hungry, aggressive ones yet, possibly because the week before still had freezing temperatures. Those would be out by early July (and indeed I encountered them at similar lakes 2 weeks later on the Mineral King loop in Sequoia National Park).

There is no easy way to get past the mountain barrier, only strenuous ones. However, one is noticeable easier and shorter than the others: Kearsarge Pass Trail. This comes at the price of extreme popularity (well, popular for something that involves physical activity and is not near a major city). From trailhead to the pass is less than 8 km and only 800 m elevation gain (<5 miles; about 2600 feet). Nearby alternatives, Baxter, Sawmill, or Taboose, are twice the effort because they start much lower. Sawmill is 20km long with 2000m of gain. 

Any of those passes serves as a gateway to the many lakes and peaks in the high mountain and connects with the famous long distance John Muir and Pacific Crest Trails. Because it is the easiest, many through-hikers use the Kearsarge Pass to resupply in Independence. In fact, that's what a long distance hiker did 150 years ago:  

"A good mountain trail conducts out of the valley at the head along the edge of the cascading river, and across the range by the Kearsarge Pass to Owens Valley, which we followed, and reached Independence on the east side of the Sierra in two days. From here we set out for the summit of Mt. Whitney."

Muir, John. The Complete Works of John Muir: Travel Memoirs, Wilderness Essays, Environmental Studies & Letters (p. 72). Madison & Adams Press. 

Because it starts high and quickly reaches some lakes, Kearsarge trail is popular with day hikers and families, some even bring inflatables. It may be the fastest escape from desert heat. The first lake, Little Pothole, is at 3000m.

The trail to Kearsarge Pass starts gaining elevation immediately, but on switchbacks with a gentle grade. Initially dry with sagebrush and manzanita vegetation. Very soon there is is a turnoff to the Golden Trout Lakes, a primitive trail that sees little use and is much more difficult (some scrambling and trail finding needed) than the Kearsarge trail. For just an overnight without crossing into Kings Canyon (Golden Trout does not go over the crest), I would try Golden Trout myself. 

The main trail climbs to the first lake within another 2 km, a basin holding Little Pothole Lake, and the beginning of trees. And shortly after that Gilbert Lake, a very pretty lake with views of tall peak towering over Kearsarge trail, University Peak, which is over 4000m. The campsites around Gilbert Lake are highly used. Now briefly within trees, a trail crosses Independence Creek to Matlock and Bench Lakes, just before Flower Lakes. That is a lot of lakes in such a short distance! 

After Flower Lake is when I think the real climb starts, maybe because it is now on talus/scree slopes and beyond the tree line. I certainly huffed and puffed from here, but took a break overlooking Heart Lake, 5 km from the trailhead. A sharp curve with some shade trees, a focal point to take a break from the effprt to have a sandwich. Good we had enough water; Heart Lake or the Big Pothole (coming next) are near the trail, but a scramble down (and back up) to get water (the earlier lakes are easily accessible). Great views of the lake and University Peak about 3 km away from the resting point. While not visible, there are another 2 lakes between Heart Lake and University Peak. 

Heart Lake and University Peak behind it

On with climbing switchbacks, the next basin is Big Pothole Lake (4.2 miles), with more views of the rugged peaks and ridges around University Peak.

Big Pothole Lake

Looks like we're almost there, but it is a really long final switchback to the top of Kearsarge Pass at 3600m, where signs mark the border of Kings Canyon National Park. 

Still on the "almost there" part

This is where day hikers turn back because passes have the common property that it goes down the other side and by now everybody had enough climbing. So they just get a view of the Kearsarge Pinnacles, Kearsage Lakes and Bull Frog Lake, but we head down. 

The main destinations, other than connecting with the John Muir Trail, are the Kearsarge and Rae Lakes or Charlotte Lake. We went to the Kearsarge Lakes and found an excellent camp site on lake 2. 

An overnight hike over Kearsarge into Kings Canyon may sound like an adventure, but 150 years ago, it served utilitarian purposes:

"We found a mountaineer who had come across the range by the Kearsarge Pass to catch trout for the purpose of stocking a number of small streams ....he caught large numbers ... and put them into tin cans to be transported on mules. He had already carried a train-load over the pass, and said that by frequently changing the water at the many streams and lakes on the way, nearly all the trout were kept alive to the end of their long and novel excursion."

Muir, John. The Complete Works of John Muir: Travel Memoirs, Wilderness Essays, Environmental Studies & Letters (p. 1793). Madison & Adams Press.  

From Kearsarge Pass, the trail drops about down steeply to the valley which then continues to descent more slowly to the John Muir Trail. After the steep descent, there is a branch trail to Kearsarge and Bullfrog Lakes. Kearsarge Lakes are a prime destination in themselves. Bullfrog Lake is particularly beautiful, but no camping or animal grazing is allowed near the lake. The curse of its attractiveness, which otherwise would lead to substantial damage (walking around the lake, the vegetation is more vulnerable as well). The Kearsarge Pass Trail connects with the John Muir Trail shortly before the big descent down to Vidette Meadow (going left/south). Charlotte Lake is a short distance beyond the end of the Kearsarge Pass Trail (right/north along the lakes trail, straight ahead otherwise). Rae Lakes isn't that much further, but there is Glenn Pass in between, as high as Kearsarge, so better saved for another day. The Rae Lakes loop seems to be another extremely popular hike, but everybody seems to start from Kings Canyon. It works just as well via Kearsarge, >80% is the same route, maybe from the East adds 5km. More than offset by a much shorter drive from Santa Monica (3 1/2 hours to Onion Valley vs 5 hours to Zumwalt). More time on trails, less in the car!  

Bull Frog lake is the prettiest of the lakes

Sunset at Kearsarge Lake 3 and Kearsarge Pinnacles

Early morning the next day

heading back