Trans North California 2020

Mendocino Woodlands, one of my favorite parts of the ride 

In the Mendocino Woodlands

The Trans North California bikepacking route, developed by Doug Frederick, is a 600km route from the Nevada/California border to the Pacific Ocean in Mendocino (about 200km longer than the Tour de Los Padres). TNC Homepage 

My last ride on the full route was in 2015, so it was time for a return - especially since there won't be any bike riding in Europe this year (Now would be the month to ride across Germany, a route I really like: Trans Germany) 

Good time windows to ride the full Trans North California route are elusive. The route starts in Verdi (near Reno) and climbs up into an area just a bit north of Truckee that has very high annual snowfall. Before June, the mountains are likely  impassable with snow. The middle section is near sea level and average day temperature in the central valley 35 C (96 F) in the summer. So October/November, when peak temperatures are down and there isn't snow in the mountains yet? That used to be Doug's plan, but it didn't work reliably because California's third annual season is fire:  

In 2018, the Ranch Fire was blazing through Mendocino National Forest in October and burned burned 1600 km2 (~400,000 acres) along the route (and further east and north, the Camp Fire destroyed the town of Paradise at the same time). In 2017, 2 smaller fires suddenly popped up along the route in October and also led to closure/evacuation orders. 

June seemed promising this year with moderate temperatures even in the central valley. My trusted steel Niner has been put to pasture, even the third fork has been rebuilt a few times and yet doesn't work great, wheels were on the last leg. I bought a used titanium Seven and I love it. Feels very similar to the steel Niner or Mariachi (of which we have 2), but is built up with much nicer components and also a bit lighter. Still the old-fashioned rear spacing (135mm) and I don't give up my front derailleur either (so continue running 2x10). 

At the beginning of the route at the Nevada/California border. 

There was a group start and race this year as well Trackleaders: transnorcal20, but I started on my own on an afternoon. I also no longer have a Spot tracker, gave that up a few years ago because I really dislike that company. I was briefly forced by family members to re-subscribe and that only caused additional annoyance, so I never will become another Spot customer. 

The route starts with an immediate climb, and not an easy one. It isn't that long, it isn't that steep, it isn't that high up in the mountains. But still not easy. Maybe because I am not acclimatized and it goes to the highest points of the total route right then. 

Around Stampede Reservoir, early on the route

The first few hours are mainly dirt road riding, but rocky and loose, a recipe for saddle sores (caused initially by chafing) and numb hands. I started in the afternoon because I wanted to camp still in the high mountains and because I remember that the first day of the route is hard on hands and bottom, so better to spread that out. The Eastern Sierra stretch is not my favorite terrain, dry, and very similar to Southern California mountains. Much of the afternoon is on Henness Pass Road, with a few detours in between. 

When I reached Henness Pass, clouds were coming in and it got surprisingly cold. I put on all my layers and this was still afternoon - but now came a road descent to Jackson Meadows. At Jackson Meadows, the sun was out again and I warmed up. 

Jackson Meadows Reservoir

At Jackson Meadows Reservoir, which is at my back. The Yuba river fills and empties it.  

Last time I filtered water from the reservoir, which is a bit awkward because the Sawyer water filter system works better with a flowing source. Now I noticed that there were several campgrounds that had piped water. It wasn't clear why they were closed, no covid signs, so it may still have been the annual winter closure why the gates were locked. But the water hydrants were working. I took that as a good sign and went around the reservoir and stayed on the far end for the night. Compared to the planned wild camping, this was very luxurious: Piped water, picnic table, fire ring, bear-proof metal storage for food. Probably a very crowded area as soon as the gates are opened, but that night there was just me. 

The next morning was lovely, the first longer climb is still early in the morning when it is cool. 

Crossing the not-so-mighty Middle Yuba river. Not North or South or East or West or Upper or Lower, just the Middle.

By starting mid-day and camping at Jackson Meadows, I reach one of the highlights of the whole route still fresh and can enjoy the lovely trails around Forest City.  

Smooth flowing single track before Forest City, can't find better trails that that

Those trails are always worth riding

The Forest City trails end with a climb back up to Henness Pass road and the next 100km will be trending downhill for a net loss of 1500m into the central valley.

  

Bullards Bar Reservoir

I had no good strategy for the central valley and was concerned about the heat. But the last weather forecast I saw put a nail into it: 41 C (107 F) and there was no way I would even try to ride. Kathy picked me up and instead of camping I stayed in an airconditioned hotel room in Davis. She shuttled me to the other side the next morning. 

Willow Creek Trail, a motorcycle route, but smooth flowing forest trail, in the Mendocino National Forest

Eel River

Lovely single track around Lake Mendocino

Anya joined me on the other highlight of the route, which is the last 35 mile stretch from Comptche to Mendocino. The final stretch is easily underestimated because it is all at low elevation and short. However, there are many sharp ups and downs, mostly single track. Those 35 miles are slow and take about 5 hours of riding time. I really think it is worth camping just before them than trying to push through in the evening or even at night. Many riders seem to skip some or even most of the section because they just want to be done (the direct route from Comptche to Mendocino is just about 15 miles pavement miles). 

The real route is much better than staying on pavement. There is a private forest owned by the Conservation Fund shortly after Comptche. Doug got permission to use it. This year, there was a change because of scheduled logging in some parts of the forest. But the alternative was maybe even better and another highlight that deserves to be documented: The road in the Conservation Fund forest ends at the Big River and there is thick vegetation along the river. Usually hard to find your way and in any event would involve bushwhacking. But Doug already did all the bushwhacking for us, a freshly cleared trail across Big River:

Freshly cleared trail!

No bushwhacking needed on our end to cross the Big River

Big River isn't really THAT big. 

What surprises me about TCF forest is the similarity to Germany. Much of the riding on the TransGermany feels like riding the TCF forest roads. 

Then comes a maybe half hour climb out of the TCF  forest and on the single tracks in the redwoods (the Mendocino Woodlands).  

Lots of steep ups and downs

The Woodland forest has a very magical feel to it. It also can be very confusing. This was my third time there and the first time I actually found exactly all the trails that Doug had planned. 

After puttering around at the bottom, there is another hard climb at Manly Gulch. Just about 300 m gain, but hard 300m. On top, you need to make the right turn (namely right). I have missed that before... But a right turn connects to paved Little Lake Road, which goes to Mendocino. Many riders have given up here and continued on the road to Mendocino. The intended route is a bit trickier as it goes off the road quickly, first some trails to the right, then to the left (we got lost briefly there again). If you are tired, hungry, thirsty, best to stay on the road. The trail is mildly technical, many sharp kicks, and on the descent some very steep sections (in fact, so steep that I decided to walk). 

Once down at the bottom, in fact very close to where we came by an hour or two earlier, we pick up the river trail for another hour along Big River into Mendocino.